What are your fridge and pantry staples?

Yes, yes, the Carnivore and the Vegetarian blog still lives! It has been a while since my last post. I’ve been pretty busy with a variety of things and have neglected the blog for way too long.  Anyway, I came across an interesting article on The Kitchn, which provides the 5 Pantry essentials when cooking for Two. This got me thinking, since I primarily am cooking for two, do these ingredients line up with what I like to have on hand? Let’s do a quick run down on The Kitchn’s list.

  1. Eggs
  2. Onions
  3. Cans of diced tomatoes
  4. Jar of Roasted Peppers
  5. Chicken Sausage

Looking at this list, I think that eggs and onions are definitely two of the most important things to have around. When in doubt, make scrambled eggs with onions. You could also toss in some sausage and roasted peppers and take down four out of five of these ingredients. The last one, diced tomatoes, isn’t something I have on hand, but I do always have crushed or whole peeled tomato cans for a quick tomato sauce.

While this is a pretty good list, and you can see more explanation on the blog itself, I think a few more could be added, including dry ingredients that can be made into a quick meal. For me have pasta and quinoa are essential. These can compliment onions, tomatoes and sausage (or another protein that keeps in the freezer). Also, having canned beans, specifically white and black beans can be made into a variety of meals — you can go in an Italian direction with white beans or Mexican direction with black beans (or plenty of other directions as you wish).

What pantry items do you find the most essential?

Over the next few weeks or months, I hope to try and post some quick meals that you can make on the fly for when you are feeling lazy, but want to avoid delivery.

Posted in beans, eggs, quinoa, red pepper, tomato | 2 Comments

Walden – In Williamsburg, not Concord, Massachusetts

Nestled a few blocks from the Lorimer station in Williamsburg Brooklyn, Walden is a cozy neighborhood restaurant that maybe even Henry David Thoreau would be proud of. Thoreau lived on beans and other plants that he grew himself, and similarly, restaurant Walden, with the motto “from farm to table food,” uses ingredients from local farms, giving each dish a local dimension.

The restaurant is small, seating about 35-40, but you don’t feel like you are sitting on top of the table next to you. Included in the figure is the bar, which features comfy bar stools with a back (this is more important than you might think). Walden only serves wine and beer, but the both lists are quite extensive and should offer something for everyone.

Full disclosure: my friend works as a cook in the kitchen. I have written about my days working at his previous restaurant here and here (shortly after the meal described in this post, I worked a brunch shift in the kitchen, so Part III of my “day in the life of a cook” will come soon). The Vegetarian and I decided to stop in to check out the new dishes and see what they had to offer.

From the time we entered the comfortable restaurant to escape the cold, the staff was friendly, polite and helpful. Our friend popped out of the kitchen to greet us as well to give us info on the menu, and to tell me about my “special entree.” I was lucky enough to get a piece of pork belly for dinner, despite the dish not being offered until brunch the next morning.

Prior to ordering, a small little amuse bouche was brought out: chickpea “chips.” Little crispy chickpea pieces were a nice start to the meal. The menu at Walden is not large, which is not a bad thing as it’s constantly changing. You know that each dish is prepared with the freshest ingredients. The items available are either “snacks” or “dishes.” The dishes are not as small as a little appetizer, but aren’t enormous plates of food either. They strike a nice balance and are also good for sharing if you just want to sit and sip wine.

To start, we ordered a single deviled egg, just to try it. I normally hate these because they are often cooked improperly. Not the case here. The yolk was creamy and full of flavor and the egg white was not overcooked and still had a nice texture. For our “first” course, I went with the Chef’s suggestion of the duck confit salad, while the vegetarian picked the fennel and apple salad. The duck itself was tender and not fatty in the least, and a very sizable salad. The apple and fennel in the other salad was fresh and the dressing was vibrant. A very nice start to the meal.

For our “entrees” I was served the pork belly, which was a small flattened square with a perfect crispy skin. The polenta were practically melt-in-your mouth good. The two together makes for a great meal. The vegetarian had the mushroom “ragout” with polenta. The dish was excellent, with the same polenta but topped with fresh mushrooms. Each dish was well executed and while they were filling, you didn’t feel like you had gorged yourself with food.

The desserts, like the main dishes, appear to change regularly, but for a few days Walden offered 4 fresh-to-order chocolate chip cookies served with a glass of milk. How great is that? While the vegetarian was hesitant to dunk the cookies, I would have gone all out!

Overall, the food, service and warmth of the setting made for a great meal. The restaurant would be a great place to enjoy some small vineyard wines (or beer) and sample little tastes like olives or deviled eggs and then finish up with some perfectly cooked polenta. I promised the chef I would be honest with my review, and I have. I wasn’t told to make the food sound better than it tasted — the food was excellent all on its own. I will soon tell the tale of working at Walden for a brunch service. Until then, go to Williamsburg and check out Walden.

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Zero Otto Nove – Italian Comfort Food in Comforting Setting

Earlier this week, after returning from vacation from the west coast, I was invited to a blogger event hosted by Zero Otto Nove, located in the Flatiron district. Often when you think of Italian food in Flatiron, Eataly often comes to mind, but you should now add Zero Otto Nove to your list of restaurants in that area. Chef Robert Paciullo’s restaurant is quite large, but does make you feel like you are in a giant restaurant. The exposed brick, large brick oven in back and charming upstairs seating area adorned with maps of Italy makes you feel right at home.

At this event, I was able to taste several courses, getting a taste of everything the restaurant had to offer. Some of the dishes sang with their delicious flavors and fresh ingredients, while others didn’t quite hit the mark. Overall, however, the meal provided a lot of reasons to come back for more. Here is a break down:

The first course was pizza, a great way to begin any meal. The two pizzas served were: Margarita Pizza (tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, parmigiano and basil) and the pizza special, which was my favorite of the two, which contained mascarpone cheese, burrata, capers and arugula. If they have the later on the menu, I would order it as a nice thing to share, its extremely rich, but delicious!

Next was my second favorite dish of the night, radiatori in cartoccio. This is a house specialty radiatori pasta cooked in tinfoil with porchini mushrooms, cherry tomatoes and bread crumbs with shaved parmigiano cheese. The dish is baked, but the pasta still came out just about al dente and the sauce, while simple, packed in a lot of flavor.

The second pasta offering was oricciette con broccoli di rapa which included oricciette with broccoli rabe, toasted almonds and pecorino cheese. The dish was light and fresh, my only complaint was that the broccoli rabe was still a bit bitter, as it can often be.

Following this parade of pasta was a hunk of meat, short rib to be exact.  Brasato alla Peroni which is a short rib braised in a peroni sauce with hot cherry peppers and topped with gorgonzola. I was a huge fan of the sauce, but I thought the short rib itself could have used a bit longer to braise.

What’s next you ask? Dolce of course. The sweet brought for us to share is only available by special request, but you should definitely request it. A nutella calzone. Yep, a nutella calzone. I’m not too sure how authentic this really is, but who cares, it was decadent, rich and delicious.

Overall, I was impressed by a number of dishes, the service was excellent throughout and the atmosphere made it come together nicely. If you are in flatiron and in the mood for reasonably priced Italian classics, check out Zero Otto Nove.

Photos courtesy of Bright Lights, My City (@SarahMShaker)

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Bottega – Michael Chiarello’s ode to Italian food

To start the new year off right, the Vegetarian and I left the east coast for a vacation to the west coast, specifically the Bay Area. Prior to a week long stay with family in Berkeley, we took a few days to ourselves in the Napa/Sonoma Valley. Vineyards and wineries are only one of the two major attractions (as far as I’m concerned) in the area — the second being restaurants. It is hard to think about this area and not immediately think of The French Laundry (and no, that isn’t when a French lady washes your clothes), Thomas Keller’s magnificent culinary achievement located in Yountville, California. While the French Laundry was closed during our visit, the street it occupies is filled with many other delicious restaurants.

Of the restaurants located on this magnificent stretch of culinary wonder, the Vegetarian and I were told we must eat at Bottega. Michael Chiarello opened Bottega in 2008, and has been receiving high acclaim ever since. The vegetarian gave me one of Chiarello’s books back in 2007, and I’ve since watched his past cooking shows and his appearance on Top Chef Masters, in which he was just edged out, finishing second. Watching Top Chef, and seeing his delicious Italian dishes made me want to try his restaurant even more.

The restaurant itself is enormous. Sitting at our table for two, the Vegetarian couldn’t help but joke that the same table in Manhattan would sit four people — not to mention the fact that in the main dining room, there was enormous amounts of space between tables. Our table was next to the wine room, which was being rented out for a 14 person bachlorette party. The restaurants decor and design gives you the feeling of being in a large cottage in Italy somewhere, making the meal even more enjoyable.

Aside from the food, the second star of the night was our waiter. I discovered later that he has been at the restaurant since it opened. He was extremely knowledgable of every technique, ingredient and intricacy of the menu. Add to that his humor and spirit for the food, and we knew we would be in for a treat.

While the menu features more than ten appetizers, I was so fixated on the pasta dishes that I opted for a pasta to start my meal. The selection was difficult, but I chose the black pepper bucatini alla carbonara soft cooked hen egg, broccolini, guanciale & parmigiano brodo (seen below). The egg was sitting atop the delicate and perfectly al dente pasta until the waiter quickly mixed it up to create the “sauce.” The dish was exquisite and actually, as crazy as it sounds, my first time ordering a carbonara at a restaurant. The vegetarian ordered the roasted baby golden & chiogga beets, Point Reyes blue cheese spuma & pistachio vinaigrette. The blue cheese “spuma” was local blue cheese mixed with heavy cream and applied to the plate using a whipped cream canister. Our waiter proclaimed “you can make it at home!” Everything about this dish screamed “California” from the fresh beets to the local made blue cheese. It was a nice light dish with nothing to complain about.

For our entrees, the Vegetarian selected the pan roasted potato gnocchi autumn root vegetables, heirloom squash pesto, Valley Ford Montasio. Again, another flawless dish. The gnocchi were soft and tender, though I only wish I could have tried to ricotta gnocchi to compare. I went with the waiters favorite dish, the wood grilled loin of grass-fed lamb saffron braised potatoes, green onions, pistachio pesto & rosemary scented lamb jus. The lamb jus could have been added on top of anything, and I would have eaten every last drop. The lamb was served a perfect medium-rare (the only way the chef prepares it) and the potatoes were not overly heavy or over powering the dish. They were almost like the ultimate “home fries.”

We opted not to order dessert, but while we sat enjoying our coffee, I noticed that Michael Chiarello had emerged from the kitchen. I noticed him standing about 15 feet away and maybe it was my unabashed staring that he noticed and brought him to our table. He came by and asked us how our meal had been and thanked us for coming in. We shook hands and maybe because I was surprised by the visit that I didn’t ask for a picture with him (for proof, you can see his later tweet to me). He wasn’t actually just stopping by our table, but visiting the bachlorette party that I mentioned before. Regardless, he was a extremely nice and welcoming and it was a nice way to finish the meal.

Overall, I was impressed with everything the restaurant had to offer. The food was excellent and the service was equally as impressive. No small detail was overlooked and ever staff member we encountered was friendly and helpful. I would definitely recommend this restaurant to anyone visiting the area, and in comparison to some of the other restaurants in town, it is a bit more reasonably priced. Italian food with hints of California, perfect.

Posted in Italian, restaurant reviews | 1 Comment

Annisa

Last night I had planned to celebrate my in-laws wedding anniversary with a dinner at Chef Anita Lo’s well known restaurant Annisa. However, due a change in plans, only the Vegetarian and I made it to the restaurant for the celebratory dinner. If you weren’t familiar with Chef Lo when Annisa opened, you probably are today after her appearance on Iron Chef America, when she beat Mario Batali, and her fine performance on Top Chef Masters. Chef Lo has owned and run Annisa for over ten years, not including the period when the restaurant needed to be rebuilt following a devastating fire. While I can only provide a review from the current incarnation, all accounts and past NY Times reviews proclaim the restaurant to still be in fine form, receiving 2 stars from the NY Times (twice) and a single Michelin star, another sign of true excellence.

The dining room itself is small, seating about 40 people, and is very minimalist. There is no art or design on the walls, the tables are simple with just a white tablecloth and a shimmering oil candle to provide additional ambiance. While simple in its appearance, there is nothing simple about the food that was being prepared in the kitchen. I later learned that Chef Lo herself was in the kitchen, as I saw her talking to diners by the small bar.

Most fine dining restaurants offer a tasting menu, often several varieties with varying course length. Annisa is no different, with a 5 and 7-course option. However, what sets Annisa apart is that you may order the tasting menu vegetarian, or, if you have specific dislikes or allergies, those are easily accommodated. The vegetarian obviously went that route, while I made no requests or restrictions on my 5-course tasting.

To start, I was served a ceviche of fluke with black lime and radishes. The dish was elegant and simple, yet provided a nice complexity of flavors. The black lime was added in drops on the plate and the fluke was seasoned only with oil and salt. The vegetarian’s first course consisted of boiled edamame and peanuts with a hint of mint. The texture of both were soft, unlike any peanuts either of us had tasted before. The first course was a winner.

The second course was what I would have ordered off the a la carte menu. This dish was the seared foie gras with soup dumplings and jicama. A typical order is three, which you could see on every table, however the tasting included just one. My only complaint was that I could have eaten fifteen of these. The seared foie gras on top was perfectly cooked and the soup dumpling was not rounded, instead shaped like a more traditional dumpling — it was superb. The vegetarian received an eggplant duo, one roasted and the other smoked. The eggplant almost took on a new flavor profile after being smoked, very unique.

Next was one of the other signature dishes of Annisa – the miso marinated sable with crispy silken tofu in a bonito broth. This dish was magnificent. The sable, which I have only had maybe once, was quite tasty and a just strong enough to hold up to the broth. The tofu was clearly house made and while slightly crisp on the outside, was creamy and soft on the inside. The vegetarian version was also silken tofu, but with Chinese broccoli and a different broth. Because the tofu wasn’t in a broth, the texture contract of crispy and soft was even more pronounced. Another winner.

The final savory course was lamb tenderloins with puntarelle, capers and anchovy. After a little research, puntarelle is a type of chicory and typically just means “the tip” of that vegetable. The dish also included lamb tartar, a first for me. The meat was a perfect medium rare and the accompaniments were in perfect harmony.  Anchovy and puntarelle are apparently a very classic Italian combination. The vegetarian’s final savory course was maybe the best of the night with a single cauliflower and ricotta gnocco (a singular of gnocchi) with cauliflower puree, hazelnuts and thinly sliced grapes. The gnocco was rich, creamy and magnificent (all that from a tiny bite). The final savory course may have been the best of the night, as the progression of dishes seemed to get better.

The dessert course for me was a lemon poppy seed bread pudding with lemon sauce. The dish was heavy, so I couldn’t quite finish it, but had I not just been stuffed with so much food, the task may have been easier. The other dessert was a tasting of chocolate and malted desserts — a chocolate souffle, malted bubble “tea,” chocolate pudding cake and what can only be described as a chocolate butter. The “tea” and souffle were the best of the bunch, specifically the souffle which was so rich it would make Donald Trump blush.

The service throughout the dinner was spot on, without a single hitch or problem. Water glasses were full, bread offered and every other possible need was quickly fulfilled. Chef Lo has clearly kept her restaurant in tip top shape over the years and not lost sight of serving elegant, flavorful food. The cuisine can only be described as slightly Asian influenced Italian-French hybrid. It really is hard to define the overall vision – though many sites refer to it as “New American.” If you are looking to celebrate a birthday or other special occasion, I would highly recommend Annisa. I have had very few meals that have topped the overall experience (food, service, style) as Annisa.

Annisa on Urbanspoon

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Takashi – A beef lovers paradise

I’m not quite sure how long Takashi has been open, but I had it in my Yelp bookmarks for a while. A few weeks ago Anthony Bourdain premiered a new show called The Layover. The show’s concept is as exactly as it sounds — you are in a city for 36-48 hours for a layover and need to do as much as you can in that time. One of the first episodes was Tony’s home town of New York City. It just so happened that Bourdain stops in Takashi, one of his favorite new restaurants. While its awesome that he went there, it is slightly less awesome in that the lines are now going to be crazy.

My friend and I showed up to Takashi at about 5:20, ten minutes before they opened and a line was already forming. You can make reservations if you are 4 or more people, but being two, we had to just hope we’d get there in time for a seat. It turned out we could sit, but only for an hour. The tables are small, seating about 4-6 people and have a grill in the center. The dishes at Takashi are either raw meats or meats that come raw that you cook on your personal grill. I can’t stress enough the freshness of the meat, maybe some of the freshest, tastiest meat I’ve had at any restaurant in Manhattan, or anywhere.

The food here isn’t cheap either, as you can imagine. When you get meat this fresh, I suppose you have to expect that to be the case. After ordering, I noticed the tables next to ours with the same dishes, so I knew we did something right. We started with to raw dishes: Yooke, which was thinly sliced chuck tartare with a raw quail egg and seaweed as well as the Niku-Uni which was raw chuck flap with sea urchin and fresh wasabi. The latter of the raw dishes was something Bourdain ate on the show and with my love of Uni, I knew I had to order it. The tartare is a nice size appetizer portion, as are most of the raw dishes. The chuck/uni dish was served four to an order. At $6 a piece, its not cheap, but its also one of the most delicious bites of food I’ve had in a while — well worth it.

As for the grilling part of the meal, we only ended up getting sweetbreads and beef belly. There were plenty of other more adventerous dishes that I would love to come back and try, but the belly and sweetbreads were out of this world. I’ve had sweetbreads that are usually pan fried, so this lightly grilled version was new to me. I could have sat there and eaten 20 of those little pieces. Each serving of the cook-to-order meats are small, about 6-8 pieces. You can easily rack up a big bill eating these little bites, but again, fresh meat, tender, cooked to perfection.

There are plenty of other options here, though they all revolve around meat. I’d love to get the tongue experience, which sounds like a tongue tasting menu. Also, trying the “chefs” selection would be a nice meal as well.

If you love beef, you will love Takashi. Make sure you come early or get a group and make a reservation. I’d imagine the wait at a regular eating time would be over an hour or more. I don’t know if I’d wait that long, but I would make time or a reservation and eat here ASAP. It truly was a beef lovers paradise.

Takashi on Urbanspoon

Posted in anothony bourdain, beef, restaurant reviews | 4 Comments

Crispy Latkes

It’s Chanukah time and so that means it’s Latke time. For those of you not familiar with Latkes, it is a potato pancake of sorts. I’ve read some differing opinions that claim that a potato pancake isn’t really a latke. A latke is supposed to be crispy on the outside and soft and cooked on the inside. You can get potato pancakes at most delis in New York (and elsewhere I’m sure), but you don’t often find a true crispy latke. Every Jewish family has their own recipe . If you asked 10 Jewish families for their recipe, you’d probably get 12 different recipes. There are lots of points up for debate:

1. Cook the latkes in oil or schmaltz (fat)
2. Shred the potatoes in a food processor or box grater
3. If you grate, should it be a mush of potatoes or shredded large
4. Matzo meal or flour
5. Onions or no onions
6. Cook them in a non stick pan, cast iron or stainless

The list goes on and on. This year I saw a great post on one of my favorite sites, Serious Eats (where else), and decided to read the detailed guide and then use the recipe. Max Falkowitz was the post author and really have an in depth description of how to make the perfect crispy, shredded latkes. I went pretty much by the book of the recipe, but variation is what its all about. For this recipe you really just need baking potatoes, oil (not olive), matzo meal, eggs, salt, pepper, an onion and cheese cloth (we’ll get there).

Ingredients:
Makes 16 latkes
Recipe from Serious Eats

4 1/2 pounds russet potatoes (about 7 medium-large)
5 cups diced onion
4 eggs
1 1/4 cup matzo meal (more or less as needed)
2 tablespoons kosher salt, to taste
Canola or peanut oil, for frying

**This recipe utilizes a food processor. If you don’t have one, use the large side of a box grater. You might want band aides on hand, as you will scrape a knuckle. More details on this recipe can be found here. Typically you want to ring out the water from the potatoes but in doing so, you lose potato starch. To mitigate this, you want to ring out the potatoes, in batches, in cheese cloth. The water that comes out will rise, while the starch sinks. After squeezing all the potatoes, you pour away the water and use the starch.**

Shred potatoes with grating disk of food processor. After every two or three potatoes, wrap shreds in cheesecloth that has been folded over twice. Tie corners around the handle of a wooden spoon and twist bundle until water flows out. Collect water in a bowl and squeeze all potatoes until dry. Transfer them to a large mixing bowl with onions (Alternatively, you can just fold into cheese cloth and squeeze by hand).

Let drained potato water sit undisturbed until a pool of brown water forms on top of a slurry of pale potato starch. Carefully drain off water, then mix starch into potato onion mixture with hands. Mix in eggs, one at a time, alternating with 1/4 cup increments of matzo meal, until latke mix can be formed into patties that just stick together in hands. Add salt incrementally.

Heat 1/2 inch oil in skillet on medium high until a shred of potato immediately bubbles. Form a small amount of latke mix into a disk and fry on both sides until golden brown to test for seasoning. Add more salt as needed.

Form patties about 4 inches wide and 1 inch thick in the center and slide into pan, cooking no more than 4 at a time. Fry until a golden brown crust forms on bottom, then flip with a slotted spatula and fork until same color is achieved on other side. Flip as needed to get a firm, darker than golden crust on both sides.

Since you make in batches, you can use oven set on 200-250 and keep cooked latkes warm on a sheet tray or wire cooling rack. Serve with your favorite toppings!

Posted in Jewish, potato | 1 Comment