GREAT Kitchens Gluten-Free Training – food for every diet

Great chefs in Manhattan, celebrity or otherwise, have the talent and skill to cook gluten free dishes that are up to their standards. Most of them, however, do not add these dishes to their restaurants menus, at least not on purpose. The main question is why? I understand that there are a number of reasons they may give, but are they really just excuses.

The GREAT Kitchens, 10-City Gluten Free Chef’s Table Tour, which launched in NYC’s Metaphor restaurant on October 23, 2013, which seeks to promote a 90-minute training course for restaurant professionals. Restaurants can learn how to offer a safe cooking environment for gluten free cuisine.

After meeting the President, Alice Bast, of Celiac Central at the recent launching a gained a greater appreciation for the issues and necessity of this campaign. Chef Jehangir Mehta  provided a multi-course gluten free meal, which shows how a small kitchen can prepare this type of meal without issues. Of course an awareness and this kitchen training program assisted along the way.

I have friends with celiac and also those who have chosen a life style that does not include eating gluten. I can not imagine the stress it must cause to try and eat out at nice restaurants with these restrictions. I’m used to dealing with meatless options, due to the Vegetarian’s diet, but this seems worse. Shouldn’t those allergic to gluten be able to enjoy a high-end gourmet meal at restaurants too? Word on the street is that Mario Batali’s restaurant Del Posto now offers gluten free pasta. That’s a step, but not everyone who doesn’t eat gluten is ready to spend $200 on a meal. The middle-to-high end restaurants need to bite the bullet and take these training courses and offer more gluten free choices.

Most cuisines, specifically those surrounding meat, would be really easy to offer gluten free choices and menu items. Much of the problems stem from contact in the kitchen, the use of the same utensils for both gluten and non-gluten items. With a some education and a little more effort in the kitchen, those who do not eat gluten should be able to enjoy the same almost the same meal as everyone else.

Some photos from the delicious dinner:

 

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Fois gras with raspberry crostini

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Oyster with whipped potatoes and crispy tapioca

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seabass with dehydrated lentils, and spicy broth

IMG_0098Caramel custard with lentil chip, caramel and toasted almonds

 

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Incognito Bistro – Where Italian Meets Scottish

During a recent dinner at Incognito Bistro, I learned that there is a large population of Italians living in Scotland — this was news to me. I had the privilege of trying a number of dishes from chef and co-owner Paolo Montana. The restaurant offers a number of Roman dishes along side an array of traditional, upscale, Scottish cuisine.  This is probably the only restaurant in New York City where you can enjoy traditional risotto and haggis. Both of which are superb.

The restaurant itself is quite large, and not just in seating (60 seats in the main area, 50 more in the bar/lounge and another 40 in a second private dining room). The ceilings are high and you are not crammed next to your neighbor like in most Manhattan restaurants. The walls have traditional black and white Italian pictures along side abstract paintings by acclaimed Scottish artist Patricia Moretti. The entire restaurant itself is a nice respite from smaller, more cramped, places.

Now…the food. And there was lots of it. To wet our whistle, we had a prociutto and rucola pizza. The tomatoes were roasted and the mozzarella was fresh and delicate. A great start.

pizza

 

Next was a baby shrimp timble — which essentially was a salad meets ceviche. It was accented with fresh asparagus, avocado, tomatoes and cilantro. A vibrant dish with lots of flavor.

shrimp

 

To follow was a small cup of Tuscan bean and swiss chard soup. While I do not usually order soup, it was nice to try this fresh soup. The type of soup offered changes regularly, but this is definitely one that would be great once the weather turns a little colder.

soup

 

Ok. So now that we have had a nice fill of Italian food, it was time to break out the Scottish dishes. The first one we tried was haggis with creamed potatoes and whisky jus. Now I have had haggis in Scottland, but it was fried and really didn’t taste like much. This however, was creamy, delicious, and decedent. I winning dish.

Haggis

 

Now back to your regularly scheduled Italian cuisine…Risotto with wild mushrooms and smoked mozzarella and carbonara with pancetta and black pepper. Of the two, I preferred the pasta. Give me pasta with pork, any pork, and I’m a happy guy.

pasta course

 

Ok, now back to Scottish. Isle of Skye Scallop with fennel beurre blanc and a parmesan crust. These scallops come from Scotland, something I really wasn’t aware they were known for. The scallop had a wonderful crust and the sauce was fantastic.

scallopThe final savory course was the one I was waiting for — baby lamb with dijon mustard and bread crumbs, Brussels sprouts and potato. I love lamb and I loved this lamb. My only critique was maybe just a touch less mustard. Everything else, sides and all, was perfect.

lamb

Finally, came a massive dessert tray. Of all their offerings, all homemade, I enjoyed the chocolate torte the most. But their strawberry ice cream, which I rarely see on menus, was also off the charts.

Incognito Bistro offers a great variety of dishes from the boot (well technically Rome) of Italy and Scotland. Not many places, if any, can boast that combination. Despite sounding odd, the food is paired nicely. The wine offerings are also expansive as is the Scotch collection. With dozens to chose from, there is something for everyone at the Incognito Bistro. Hopefully now it’s not so incognito…

 

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Giano Restaurant and Wine Bar

I recently attended a dinner at Giano and was able to try a number of their classic dishes. Located in Alphabet City (or the East Village, however you want to refer to it), Giano boasts an indoor seating area as well as a seasonal garden, with an additional capacity of 20 seats. It’s really quite a nice outdoor space which makes you think, even for just a little while, that you are not in downtown Manhattan.

Before getting to the Roman Italian dishes we sampled, it’s important to note that the restaurant does offer a gluten free option for most pasta dishes. You may not enjoy the same variety of pasta, but you can taste each of the sauces as they were meant to be served. Giano offers happy hour Tuesday through Thursday and on Sunday (they are closed Monday) and it only open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday. Happy not only offers some discounted alcohol, but also a 2-course prix fixe dinner for $21.95.

To start off the meal, we tasted a trio of appetizers including polenta with mixed mushrooms, grass fed beef meatballs and a creamy tuna crocchette.  The polenta is not actually a creamy version, instead you get several fried polenta pieces and delicious mushrooms cooked in just enough butter. The meatball is in a classic tomato sauce and the tuna crocchette is filled with tuna, ricotta and served with arugula and a balsamic reduction.

tuna

polenta

                                    

 

 

 

 

 

The first pasta course we were served was bigoli (a think housemade Medieval pasta), like a spaghetti, with a braised lamb ragu and toasted walnut powder. While a ragu like this can be very heavy, this was a little lighter, but it surely didn’t lose any of its great flavors. I’m a sucker for lamb ragu, and this one was spot on.

pasta ragu

Next, Rigatoni with ricotta salata, fava beans and pancetta. This was my least favorite pasta of the three we tried. I found it to be salty and really didn’t have enough of a sauce.

Finally, the gnocchi. Four cheese gnocchi. These were outrageously good. So soft, like little clouds of perfection. The cheeses made it rich, so rich that I think this dish jumped tax brackets to the top 1%. Due to all the dishes we tried, I tried to pace myself…until the gnocchi, which I completely demolished.

gnocchi

The first of the two secondi plates was a pan seared cod with black olives, capers and crispy polenta. I found this dish to be overly salty due to all of the salty and brined elements. I also wish there was something other than crispy polenta. The fish however was cooked perfectly.

fish

The final savory course was a filet mignon with pancetta and basil mashed potatoes.  They weren’t just mixed with basil, they looked green and they were superb. The filet isn’t something I would normally order, but went well with the mashed potatoes.

steak

For dessert I only had room for a coffee gelato with layered wafer cookies and a ricotta coffee foam. It was like a cappuccino met a dessert and created this dish. It was rich, but isn’t it supposed to be? I would like try the creame brulee next time.

Overall, while there were a few dishes that didn’t hit it out the park for me, many of them were reasons to come back. Those gnocchi will haunt my dreams (in a good way) as will the lamb ragu and cappuccino dessert. Check this place out and sit in the garden before the season changes.

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“Spaghetti” and Meatballs

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On the upper west side of Manhattan, there is a restaurant called Tolani. The restaurant serves a pretty wide array of foods from Spain, South Africa, Turkey and offers something for everyone. One dish in particular is the Vegetarian’s favorite: Vegetarian Spaghetti and meatballs. In this case however, the spaghetti is actually spaghetti squash and is served with eggplant meatballs and a garlic broth.

While this dish is delicious and all, real meatballs would do it even better justice (in the Carnivore’s opinion). I recently found a recipe on the Kitchn for veal meatballs and a red wine sauce. The sauce is complex and is perfect along side soft, plump meatballs. The Vegetarian enjoyed the sauce previously, as part was removed prior to the meat entering the pot. This dish is no different, except that the only spaghetti will be that off the squash.

Spaghetti squash seems intimidating to prepare, but it’s actually quite easy. You want to cut the squash lengthwise, scoop out the seeds, brush on some olive oil, salt and pepper, then bake (Cut side up) for about 45 minutes at 375. When done, you simply use a fork and scrape the strands and place into a bowl. Serve with butter/herbs or, in this case, with red wine sauce.

 

Ingredients:
Recipe courtesy of The Kitchn
Serves 5-6
Makes about 30 small meatballs (or about 20 medium size)

Meatballs:

3/4 cup whole milk (I used lactose free skim plus)
1/2 cup fine dried breadcrumbs
3/4 pound ground beef
3/4 pound ground veal
1 teaspoon chunky kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1/4 cup finely chopped Italian parsley
Finely chopped sage (about 3-4 leaves) or 1 teaspoon dry
3/4 cups finely diced or grated yellow onion, from about 1 small yellow onion
2 large garlic cloves, finely minced or grated
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 large eggs, beaten
Olive oil

Sauce:

1 small yellow onion
6 cloves garlic
Olive oil
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 cups red wine, such as Cabernet Sauvignon
1 cupchicken broth (Or vegetarian to keep Veggie)
32-ounce can whole plum tomatoes
One 4-inch long sprig fresh rosemary
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Prepare Sauce:

Dice the onion and mince the garlic. Heat a large, deep sauté pan over medium high heat (or medium side pot, in order to fit sauce and meatballs). Sauté the onion and garlic in the olive oil until very soft — about 10 minutes, turning the heat down if necessary.

Stir in the tomato paste and fry for a minute or two, stirring until well-incorporated. Pour in the wine and broth and bring to a simmer, then add the tomatoes, salt, and a generous amount of black pepper. Place the rosemary sprig on top, bring to a simmer and cook for 30 to 60 minutes, covered. When the sauce has developed a deep, rich flavor, turn off the heat and puree with an immersion blender (or in a standing blender) until smooth.

While sauce cooks, prepare meatballs:

Pour the milk over the breadcrumbs in a small bowl. Stir them together and set them aside for at least 10 minutes for the crumbs to soften.

Mix the meats together thoroughly in a large mixing bowl (you can also use pork/veal/beef, then use 1/2 lbs of each). Stir in the salt and a generous amount of black pepper, then add the smoked paprika and cayenne. Stir in the chopped parsley, sage, onion, garlic, and Parmesan. Mix with your hands until these are very thoroughly distributed through the meat.

Stir in the breadcrumbs and milk, as well as the eggs, and mix thoroughly.

Keep meatballs in refrigerator until ready to add to sauce. Alternatively you can shape or keep as large in sealed container for 3 months in freezer.

Cook Meatballs:

Shape meatballs and place into sauce after it has simmered for about 40 minutes. Lower temperature of sauce to achieve a low simmer (medium-low) and cover. Cook until meatballs are not pink inside, about 25-30 minutes. Don’t worry about crowding meatballs or some being on top. after they have cooked about 10 minutes, try and spoon sauce to cover meatballs.

Serve with pasta, polenta, vegetables or spaghetti squash.

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Spaghetti Squash

1 large spaghetti squash
olive oil
salt
pepper
heavy bottom pan

Heat oven to 375.

Slice squash lengthwise in half. With spoon, scoop out the seeds and flesh in center. Drizzle with olive oil and a generous pinch of salt and pepper.

Cook for 45 minutes, or under fork tender, cut side facing up.

When cooked and cooled for about 5 minutes, using a fork, scrape the flesh out so it forms the stringy pasta strands. Use your fingers to separate any parts that stick.

Serve with above sauce OR with butter, lots of butter.

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Parmesan and Parsley Crusted Pork Chops

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The vegetarian was craving a loaded baked potato. And it turns out that a tomatillio and corn salsa recipe, that I had previously made for crab cakes, goes really well on top of aforementioned baked potato. I just needed something to come up with something Carnivorey (I just coined this term, look for it in next years Webster Dictionary) to go with the starch and salsa.

I cook pork chops all the time, but I always do them about the same way. Pan sauteed with a pan sauce. This time, I wanted to bread them, but also keep them light. One of the golden rules to a golden crisp crust is the dry-wet-dry method. I used to just dip in egg and then into bread crumb mixture. I was clearly doing it wrong. With a little help from Cooking Light, I made my own little three phased dipping bowls.

You want to have three shallow bowls. The first has flour. The second has egg. The third has the crusting agent. In this case, I actually used matzo meal. To spice them up, I tossed in some Dijon mustard with the egg, and fresh chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and Parmesan cheese with the matzo meal (you can use bread crumbs). The result was a crispy pork chop that was a perfect temperature inside.

Ingredients:
Loosely Based on Cooking Light recipe
Makes 4 pork chops

4 boneless center cut pork chops (~4-6 oz each)
1/2 cup all purpose flour
1/2 cup matzo meal (or unseason bread crumbs)
2 tablespoons parsley, finely chopped
2 large egg (or 2 egg whites)
1/2 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon Parmesan cheese (finely grated)
1-2 tablespoons cooking oil – Vegetable/Canola etc.
salt
pepper

Combine matzo meal/breadcrumbs, cheese, sage, pinch of salt, and a bit of pepper in a shallow bowl. Place flour in another shallow bowl. Mix mustard and egg in another shallow bowl until combined.

One at a time, dredge pork in flour on all sides (including edges) and shake off excess. Dip into egg letting any extra drip off and then finally coat pork in matzo mixture, on all side. Set aside. Repeat with remaining three pork chops.

Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add oil to pan. You want heat to be high enough to brown chops, but not burning them. Add pork; cook 3 minutes on each side and then using tongs, quickly cook the edges. Pork should register about 140 degrees internal temperature. They will cook slightly more as they rest.

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Leek Bread Pudding

Leek Bread Pudding

I always trust Martha Stewart recipes. I don’t know why, I just do. They are usually well tested and come out like the picture depicted online. It turns out that the recipe I used to make this savory dish, that should really be on your next Thanksgiving Day spread, was really from Thomas Keller — legendary Chef and Owner of the French Laundry and Per Se. Now I know that the recipe is legit.

If you love leeks as much as I do, then you will love this dish. If you love crispy bread and cheesy filling. You will eat this entire dish with no remorse. Chefs often speak of the holy trinity in cooking — onion, carrot and celery. I think that the leek is the first alternate. The vegetable called up from the minor league affiliate, ready to step in for duty. In this dish, leeks are the only vegetable. Therefore, go big or go home. Use lots of them. I used three big ones, and next time I might use 6. Also, make sure you get a fresh brioche. While the recipe says to remove all crust, I omitted this step. The bread was so fresh and the crust was not too thick that it tasted totally fine. I also made a few adjustments, mostly to make it have less cream. I also used lactaid free milk, but feel free to load yours up with lactose.

Ingredients:
Serves about 10-12 as side
Recipe Courtesy of Martha Stewart via Thomas Keller

2 cups leeks (white and light-green parts only), sliced into 1/2-inch-thick pieces
Coarse salt
4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsalted butter
Freshly ground black pepper
12 cups 1-inch cubes crustless brioche or Pullman sandwich loaf
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chives
1 teaspoon fresh thyme, leaves
3 large eggs
4.5 cups milk
1.5 cups heavy cream
Freshly grated nutmeg
1 cup shredded Comte or Emmentaler (I used emmentaler)

Special Equipment – Parchment Paper – cut parchment paper the size of your skillet.

DIRECTIONS

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Fill a large bowl with water and add leek slices. Separate leeks with your hands, getting rid of any dirt.

Heat a medium skillet over medium-high heat; using your hands, lift leeks out of water and transfer to skillet. Cook, stirring often, until leeks begin to soften, about 5 minutes.

Reduce heat to medium-low and continue cooking until leeks release their liquid, about 5 minutes. Add butter to skillet and stir to emulsify; season with pepper. Cut a parchment paper round the same size as the skillet with a 1-inch hole in the center and set round in skillet. Cook leeks, stirring every 10 minutes, until very soft, 30 to 35 minutes. If the butter breaks or looks oily, stir in a tablespoon water to re-emulsify. Remove and discard parchment lid.

While leeks are cooking, spread bread cubes on a baking sheet and toast in oven for about 20 minutes, rotating pan about halfway through, until dry and lightly toasted. Keep a watchful eye, no one wants burned bread. Transfer to a large bowl. Add leeks to bread; toss to combine. Add chives and thyme.\

In another large bowl, lightly whisk eggs. Add milk, cream, a generous pinch of salt, pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg; whisk to combine. Set custard mixture aside.

Sprinkle 1/4 cup cheese in the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Spread half of the leek mixture in baking dish and sprinkle with another 1/4 cup cheese. Repeat process with remaining leek mixture and 1/4 cup cheese. Pour enough of the custard mixture over leek mixture and press gently on bread so it soaks up the custard. Let soak for 15 minutes.

Pour remaining custard over leek mixture. Sprinkle with remaining 1/4 cup cheese and season with salt. Transfer to oven and bake until pudding is set and top is brown and bubbling, about 1 1/2 hours.

Posted in bread, leek, side dish, vegetarian | Leave a comment

Google Ruined Zagat

I first must confess. I use gmail. I use google calendar. I previously had an Android phone. I use YouTube (yea, Google got that too). Google transformed itself from a search engine to a technology giant. They most recently brought us the ChromeCast which attaches to a TV to stream YouTube, Netflix (more coming) right from any device. All of this stuff is great — kudos Google.

Google isn’t perfect. And one major example is their recent purchase of Zagat, the 30+ year old food rating and review service. Previously, it was only available to paid subscribers or those who purchased a copy of a particular city guide. The website was a bit antiquated and in need of an update, but it still provided all the information I wanted. Ratings, menus, signature dishes, reviews, info that’s helpful prior to dining, etc.

Now enter Google. Just a few days ago, Google launched the all new Zagat website, and with one single stroke ruined killed destroyed Zagat. The new site only has a few initial launch cities so if I’m traveling to Spain or somewhere else next week I’m out of luck. The new site resembles other food related sites out there with lots of videos, best of lists, etc. I’m fine with the existence of these types of things on Zagat, but when you absolutely crush the search engine (Google’s bread and butter) and make it completely useless. There is going to be backlash.

Before it was taken down (or moved), the initial announcement had a comment section. For every 50 bad comments there were one no good comments. The site is a shell of its former self. It is an utter disgrace to use and navigate. Not only that, but if you search a restaurant in Google, the subsequent side advertisement no longer lists the former 1-30 Zagat rating, but instead a 1-5. If you click “more from Zagat” you are given the old score, in tiny print, under a long list of “best of” lists.

I know that Google is asking for feedback, so here is your feedback. Do everyone out there who used to love Zagat a favor and make some changes.

UPDATE – as of the Zagat blog post on Tuesday August 6th, many of the previous search functions have been restored.

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